Another A-Z: Rabbit Breeds (4)

Another A-Z: Rabbit Breeds (4)


Welcome to the fourth post of the series, covering an A-Z of rabbit breeds. This post will cover breeds from J-L; including some basic titbits about the breed, and some interesting facts. As per my two previous A-Z series, for Dog breeds and Cat breeds, between 1-3 breeds will be covered per letter – accompanied by photo’s of the breed.
In the follow up posts, continuing down the alphabet, I will be writing posts covering breeds from M-O, P-R, S-V, and W-Z. If you missed the any of the previous posts, follow the below links:

1. A-C, 2. D-F, 3. G-I

J

Jersey Wooly

Origin: USA
Size: Dwarf
Weight: 0.4-1.4 kg
Lifespan: 7-10 years
Colours: Brown, white, grey, black

Originating in New Jersey, the Jersey Wooly rabbit has a few nicknames, such as Mug Head rabbit, Fluff of Fancy and “No Kick” rabbit. They are said to have a lovley temperament – not prone to biting or kicking.

The Jersey Wooly was recognised as a breed by ARBA (American Rabbit Breed Association) in 1988, after being presented in 1984 as a new breed, having been developed by cross breeding the Netherland Dwarf with the French Angora.

Open source images

Japanese White

Origin: Japan
Size: Small
Weight: 2.5-3 kg
Lifespan: 8-9 years
Colours: White (often Albino)

This is not a recognised breed by either ARBA or BRC (British Rabbit Council). Sometimes kept as pets, this breed is known for being used as a lab rabbit for animal testing – often in relation to developing medical procedures and health care. The lifespan provided above is in relation to non-lab animals.

Open source images

K

Kabyle

Origin: Algeria
Size: Small
Weight: 2-3 kg
Lifespan: 8-12 years
Colours: Brown, white, tan, black

This is not a recognised breed by either BRC or ARBA, but I wantes to cover it as there are no other breeds/types for this letter. This rabbit seems to be kept as a food source and sold at local markets as such, as opposed to being kept as a pet. The original Kabyle rabbit seems to have been lost in the 1970’s with the introduction of other rabbit breeds, which the Kabyle cross bred with. The current Kabyle type has been bred by mixing a few known breeds (including the Cakifornian and New Zealand White) to try and get back to the Kayble that was lost. It is said to do well in hot climates.

L

Lionhead

Origin: Belgium and France
Size: Small
Weight: 1.1-1.7 kg
Lifespan: 7-9 years
Colours: Beige, Black, Blue, Chinchilla, Chocolate, Cinnamon, Fawn, Lilac, Silver, White – as well as whole host of patterns, including (not limited to) Tortoiseshell and varieties of this, Broken colour patterns (white + colour), and Pointed colour patterns.

The Lionhead is an aptly named breed due to the little ‘mane’ they have around their necks. Despite their popularity as pets for young children, they are not really suitable for young children as they have weak backs and are not too fond of being handled (which may be improved with training/habituation); they are more suited to a more responsible age, in which the rabbit’s space will be respected and more experienced, gentle handling.

This breed is said to have been developed by cross breeding the Swiss Fox and Netherland Dwarf – this had been a recognised breed by the BRC since 1999, but only recognised by ARBA 10 years ago, in 2014!

Open source images

All images are either open source, Google images, or my own – or photos donated for use by the pet owners.


If you have any questions or comments; please post a comment below, or contact Ali’s Answers via one of the social media pages…

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Bunny Food

Bunny Food


It’s often said that salad is “rabbit food” or “bunny food” – but how much of a salad can you actually feed to your pet rabbit? What other foods often thought of as “bunny food” should you avoid giving to your pet rabbit? What should be fed as “bunny food”?


* This is not an extensive list – check with your vet if you’re unsure or if the foodstuff is not included in this post. Be sure to check safe amounts for your age/ breed/ size of rabbit and their personal dietary requirements. Be sure to wash all fresh foodstuffs before feeding. *

LETTUCE

I feel like most people are surprised when I suggest keeping iceberg lettuce and other light coloured lettuces away from rabbits, as people often think of lettuce as “bunny food”.

Iceberg lettuce and other light coloured lettuces may contain a fluid known as lactucarium, which causes diarrhoea in rabbits. Being so high in water content, these also add very little nutritional value to their diet.

Some darker lettuces are safe to feed your rabbit but always in reasonable quantities. If in doubt, check with your vet what lettuces are safe to feed your pet and suitable serving size for your pets’ age, weight, and breed.

Lupin (left) & Thumper (right)
CARROTS & POTATOES

Not to say that carrots are bad for rabbits, but they are high in sugar and should only be fed in small amounts as a treat. Rabbits in the wild don’t naturally dig up root vegetables for dinner, much to the contrary of Bugs Bunny, who can often be seen munching on a carrot!

Fed in small quantities and certainly not every day, carrots can be a tasty treat for your long eared friend!

Avoid feeding any part of a potato to your rabbit. Being high in starch and carb’s, they do not really provide any health benefit to your bunny – as this can cause digestive issues, I would steer clear.

VEGETABLES

Bell peppers (no seeds), curly kale, bok choy, asparagus, parsnips, carrots (see above), cauliflower (including the leaves), celery, swede, courgette, peas, fennel, and mange tout are all safe “bunny foods”.

In small doeses: too much can cause gas to build up – brussel sprouts, broccoli, and cabbage.

Sliced carrots & red bell pepper
FRUIT

No seeds – apples, melon, pumpkin, oranges, pears, kiwi, and grapes (not whole, (and raisins) as an occasional sweet treat) are all safe for your bunny.

Raspberries, blackberries, blueberries, strawberries, peaches (no stone), and pineapples (small quantities) are also safe for your bunny to eat.

FRESH HERBS

Basil, mint, parsley, coriander, dill, and thyme are all bunny safe herbs (fed fresh).

PLANTS

Grass is the obvious one here, but be sure this is fresh grass and never cut grass – particularly from a lawn mower. Avoid allowing you rabbit access to grass that has been treated with anything (pesticides, weedkiller, etc.) that could make your pet ill.

Nettles and clover are also safe for your bunny to munch on. As are dandelions, daisies, nasturtiums, hollyhock, sunflowers, bell flowers, and lavender – flowers and leaves. My first rabbit often had free run of the garden (supervised), but he would stay close to me if I was making a daisy chain (often with dandelions added to the chain) so he could munch away on it when I was done!

Daffodils, foxgloves, rhododendrons, tulips, lily’s, chrysanthemums, rhubarb, buttercup, ivy, holly, hemlock, iris, nightshade, hydrangea, and hyacinths are all plants which are TOXIC to rabbits. Unfortunately, that doesn’t always deter them – as a child, we lost a rabbit after she consumed daffodil bulbs!

Daffodils

HEALTH & DIET

BE AWARE that incorrect feeding can also lead to bloat in rabbits; the result of incorrect foodstuffs and/ or overfeeding treat foodstuffs can cause a build-up of liquid and gas, causing a blockage. Bloat is quite often fatal in rabbits – even within just a few hours.

THE BULK of your rabbit’s diet should be fresh hay (not straw) and grass – this helps keep their teeth worn down (rabbit’s teeth are constantly growing) and provides much need fibre for your bunny’s high fibre digestive system.

THIS IS followed by pellet rabbit food – muesli style rabbit food is fine if your rabbit will eat all items in the mix, every time; pellet food has all the same nutritional value but mixed into one (more boring looking) pellet so that rabbits cannot pick and choose what they eat, therefore aiding to ensure a good nutritional balance without deficiency.

BE SURE to adjust the meal size to accommodate any treats being given, so as to avoid overfeeding.

ALWAYS BE sure to refresh your rabbit’s water daily and make sure they always have access to fresh water. Some rabbits will kick substrate into water bowls and refuse to drink from the dirty water source, whereas bottles keep the water secure in a clean container. Whatever your rabbit’s preferences, be sure they have access to clean water.

Rabbit munching on hay
CAECOTROPHY

Pronounced see-co-tro-fy is the process in which your rabbit will excrete caecotrophs, which are made up of nutrients that were not digested the first time round. These are soft pellets, which can be mistaken for soft poop pellets but are then eaten by your rabbit to go for round two through the digestive tract. If your rabbit does not appear to be doing this, take them for a vet check-up in case of underlying medical issues (such as physical pain or dental issues).

Rabbits eating indigestible poop pellets is known as coprophagy and is an undesirable behaviour; it is best to get this checked out.


All images are either open source, Google images, or my own – or photos donated for use by the pet owners.
If you have any questions or comments; please post a comment below or contact Ali’s Answers via one of the social media pages:
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‘Fraid of Fireworks

‘Fraid of Fireworks


As we approach Halloween and Bonfire Night, fireworks tend to play a large part in the festivities that people participate in.

Further to my Fireworks Anxiety (dogs) post from 2014, as a lot of pets are scared of fireworks, here are some tips to help them through it.


Dogs

Long Term: it is good practise to try and desensitise your dog to the loud bangs, so that thunder and fireworks are not too much of an issue.

With my two, from being small pups, I played thunder and fireworks videos on YouTube at a low volume to get them used to the noises. Over time I increased the volume (as real thunder and fireworks are loud!) to continue the desensitising. I would play with my pups or practise tricks and reward with treats – doing something positive and enjoyable to help my pups not be bothered by the noises going on.

Gradually, over time, working with your dog to desensitise them to loud noises, can help them to have a positive association to these sounds (such as thunder and fireworks) with, instead of evoking a negative and often fearful response.

A couple of relaxed dogs

During: some things you can do for your dog whilst the fireworks are going off in your neighbourhood to help them feel more relaxed…

– Use an anti-anxiety plug in diffuser or calming collar. These use calming pheromones to help calm your dog. The ones I’ve used in the past (in other circumstances) have been Adaptil products, but there are other brands on the market.

– Ensure your dog has a safe space; a quiet, secure, covered area to retreat to, should they need it. A crate (door left open) or table covered with a blanket or towel, with blankets and favourite toys inside can be a place of comfort for your dog to go to if the fireworks get too much for them.

If you are able to provide multiple safe spaces within your home, this will give your dog options – they may feel less stress and anxiety in one area of the house, so giving multiple safe spaces gives your dog the choice of where to retreat to, where they feel safest.

– Do not take your dog outside whilst fireworks are going off as this will only add to their anxiety. Ensure you have taken them for walkies and let them out for the toilet before fireworks are due to go off, which usually means taking them out before dark.

– Close your blinds/ curtains; it’s not just the noise of fireworks that can frighten your dog – the flashing lights can also upset them. Blocking out the sight of the fireworks should help.

– If your dog is content to have a chew toy/ treat or to engage in play, this is a good way to distract them from what’s going on outside.

– If your dog has severe anxiety, speak to your vet as they may require medication to help them through the firework season. Ask your vet to refer you to a behaviourist to work on this long term.

Dog walkies before dark

Cats

– As with dogs, keep cats inside whilst the fireworks are going off. If your cat is an outdoor cat, ensure to provide a litter tray whilst they are indoors.

Do not confine your cat to one room/ area as they may injure themselves trying to escape.

– Block off/ lock cat flaps and ensure your doors and windows are secure to prevent your cat from getting out.

Do create a safe hiding place for your cat; somewhere they can retreat to if they need to.

– If your cat is happy to be distracted with play, do spend time playing with your cat to ease their anxiety.

Feliway or other branded pheromone products can also be used to help relax your cat.

Kittens safe and snuggled in a box with blankets and bed

Rabbits and Guinea Pigs

– If they usually live outside in a hutch, it’s a good idea to bring the hutch inside, or put your pets in an inside enclosure, whilst fireworks are going on outside.

– Ensure windows and doors are closed. Ensure curtains and blinds are closed. This will help dampen the noise.

– Adding extra bedding in the hutch or indoor enclosure will also help to dampen to noise, and provides a safe area to snuggle in if they get scared.

– Monitor their behaviour and seek veterinary assistance if necessary. If a rabbit or guinea pig is severely anxious they may stop eating, chew their cage, freeze, pull their fur out, or perform other anxious behaviour.

Rabbit in a hutch, indoors. Hutch has extra hay and a plastic hide-away.

Summary: All Pets

– Need a safe space away from the fireworks.

– Need to be monitored. Any extreme behavioural changes should be noted and your vet contacted.

– Need to be secure, indoors with windows and doors securely closed. Curtains and blinds should also be closed.

– Avoid having your pets outside with you if you are doing or attending firework displays.

Fireworks

All images are either open source, Google images, or my own – or photos donated for use by the pet owners.


If you have any questions or comments; please post a comment below, or contact Ali’s Answers via one of the social media pages:

• Instagram (@alis.animal.answers)
• Facebook (Ali’s Animal Answers)
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Finding Your Best Friend: A Senior’s Guide to Pet Ownership

Owning a pet can be an absolute joy and benefit to your health. Entering your senior years doesn’t mean you have to forgo having a loving pet, but it does mean you should take some extra care and time finding your next best friend…

Moving With Your Pet: A Guide For Stressed Nomads

Moving With Your Pet: A Guide For Stressed Nomads

It can sometimes be stressful moving animals from one home to the next, but there are several things you can do to make it less anxiety-inducing for everyone involved. Whether you have a dog, a cat, or even a rabbit, check out these tips for moving with your animal companions…

Another A-Z: Rabbit Breeds (2)


D, E, F

Welcome to the second post of the series, covering an A-Z of rabbit breeds. This post will cover breeds from D-F; including some basic titbits about the breed, and some interesting facts. As per my two previous A-Z series, for Dog breeds and Cat breeds, between 1-3 breeds will be covered per letter – accompanied by photo’s of the breed.
In the follow up posts, continuing down the alphabet, I will be writing posts covering breeds from, G-I, J-L, M-O, P-R, S-V, and W-Z. If you missed the first post covering A-C, click here.

D

Dutch (a.k.a. Hollander; a.k.a. Brabander)

Origin: Despite the name, the Dutch rabbit does not actually originate in the Netherlands, but in England!
Size: Small
Weight: 1.5-2.5 kg
Lifespan: 6-9 years
Colours: All Dutch rabbits have that distinct white blaze on the face, the ‘collar’ (neck), ‘saddle’ (front section of the body) and ‘stops’ (front section of the back feet). The rest of the animal can be the following seven colours: black, blue, steel, chinchilla, grey, chocolate or tortoise.

This breed came from imported rabbits, sent over to England for the meat market, during the 1830’s – the Dutch breed is said to have been developed in the 1860’s. Dutch rabbits are easy-going, intelligent and friendly; making lovely pets. However, they are quite energetic, and therefore can be unsuitable for younger children, but more suited to families with older children, or adult-only homes.

Dwarf Hotot

Origin: Germany
Size: Dwarf
Weight: 1-1.5 kg
Lifespan: 7-10 years
Colours: White with black rings or ‘spectacles’ around the eyes, only.

The Dwarf Hotot is not specifically a dwarf version of the Blanc De Hotot, but rather a breed that came about by crossing the Blanc De Hotot with other rabbit breeds (such as the Netherland Dwarf), which resulted in the Dwarf Hotot. This breed was developed in the 1970’s in Germany – by two independent breeders, on in East Germany and one in West Germany, who came together and bred their Dwarf Hotot rabbits to give us the Dwarf Hotot we have today.

E

Enderby (Island) Rabbit

Origin: Enderby Island, New Zealand
Size: Small
Weight: 1.3-1.8 kg
Lifespan: 5-8 years
Colours: Mainly slate (under-coat; dark blue, with silvering on body), Champagne (under-coat; light blue, with silvering on body) and Crème (under-coat; orange, with creamy-white body hairs tipped with silver).

The Enderby comes from stock introduced in 1865, to Enderby Island from Australia, as food for castaways. After 130 years of being left to their own devices, natural selection had produced a distinct variety – the Enderby Rabbit. In the 1990’s they were exterminated by wildlife management aside from just under 50 individuals who were rescued by New Zealand’s Rare Breeds Conservation Society – through breeders, this breed has been preserved through to today.

English Spot

Origin: England
Size: Medium
Weight: 2.5-3.5 kg
Lifespan: 5-9 years
Colours: White body with spots, ears, eye circles, cheek spots and nose ‘butterfly’ in the following colours – Black, Blue, Grey and Chocolate.

One of the very first breeds to be established for show purposes, the English Spot tends to be friendly, docile, and comfortable with handling. It is clear by their markings where this breed got its name, and why they’ve been a popular show rabbit since the 1850’s! The English Spot is also a popular pet rabbit, due to their friendliness and active/ playful natures – however their active nature can make them unsuitable for you children.

F

Flemish Giant

Origin: Belgium
Size: Giant
Weight: 6-7 kg
Lifespan: 8-10 years
Colours: Black, blue, light grey, steel grey, sandy, white, and fawn.

Originally bred for their meat and fur, the Flemish Giant rabbits have been around since the 16th century. On 2010, a Flemish Giant rabbit named Darius became the Guinness World Record holder as the longest rabbit ever, at 4ft 3 inches. However, in 2017, Darius’ son Jeff reached 3ft 8 inches and is thought to beat his dad’s record some day!


All images are either open source, Google images, or my own – or photos donated for use by the pet owners.


If you have any questions or comments; please post a comment below, or contact Ali’s Answers via one of the social media pages…
. Facebook (Ali’s Animal Answers)
. Twitter (@AlisAnswers)
. LinkedIn (Ali Lloyd)

Another A-Z: Rabbit Breeds (1)

Another A-Z: Rabbit Breeds (1)


Welcome to the first post of the series, covering an A-Z of rabbit breeds. This first post will cover breeds from A-C; including some basic titbits about the breed, and some interesting facts. As per my two previous A-Z series, for Dog breeds and Cat breeds, between 1-3 breeds will be covered per letter – accompanied by photo’s of the breed.
In the follow up posts, continuing down the alphabet, I will be writing posts covering breeds from D-F, G-I, J-L, M-O, P-R, S-V, and W-Z.

A

Alaska

Origin: Despite the name, the Alaska rabbit does not actually originate in Alaska, but in Germany!
Size: Medium
Weight: 3-4 kg
Lifespan: 7-10 years
Colours: Black only – however they can go slightly brown around the neck and shoulders in the summer.

Alaska rabbits are friendly, good tempered and make great family pets as they are not known to be aggressive but are quite docile. They are also generally gentle and affectionate, and lovely as pets.

Argenté

Origin: France
Size: Small, except the Champagne which is Medium
Weight: 2.7-3 kg, except the Champagne which is 4.4-5.6 kg
Lifespan: 5-8 years
Colours: Top colour is always silver, it is the undercoat colours that vary and therefore (alongside weight differences) define the breed variants.

– Argenté de Champagne (slate blue/ white undercoat)
– Argenté Crème  (orange/ cream undercoat)
– Argenté Brun (dark brown/ beige undercoat)
– Argenté Clair (blue/ silver)
– Argenté Bleu (lavender blue/ dark blue)
– Argenté St Hubert (blue/ chestnut)

Argenté rabbits are known to be quite easy going and placid, and enjoy attention – providing they’re properly socialised as kits (young rabbits). Some compare the temperament of these rabbits as like a “well mannered cat”.

B

Belgian Hare

(don’t let the name fool you, it IS a rabbit!)

Origin: Belgium
Size: Medium
Weight: 2.7-4 kg
Lifespan: 7-10 years
Colours: Black and Tan, Black, Chestnut, Tan, Red – with black ticking. Black and Tan being the breed standard.

Some describe this breed as “highly-strung” as they are very active and can be easily startled and skittish. They are friendly and enjoy petting, however they are not recommended for beginners as they require a fair bit of maintenance and need someone who can handle their nervousness.

British Giant

Origin: United Kingdom
Size: Giant
Weight: 5.5-7 kg
Lifespan: 4-6 years

Bred in the UK as a new breed, from varying colours of Flemish Giant stock from the US in the 1940’s, the British Giant is a friendly and calm rabbit; docile and laid back. They are not as active as smaller breeds of rabbit and are quite happy to chill and laze around. They are generally good-natured, and are good family pets.

Blanc de Hotot

Origin: France – Hotot en Auge (Normandy)
Size: Medium
Weight: 5.5-7 kg
Lifespan: 4-6 years
Colours: White with black rings or ‘spectacles’ around the eyes, only.

Originally raised for meat, but now kept as pets. A breed not known for being overly active, yet still enjoy exploring and spending time outside – they are friendly and make good pets.

C

Californian

Origin: California
Size: Medium
Weight: 3.4-5.8 kg
Lifespan: 5-10 years
Colours: In the US, the only accepted colour is white with black (only) points (ears, nose, tail and feet) and pink eyes. In the UK the points can be black, blue, chocolate or lilac.

Calm, friendly and playful! These good-natured rabbits make good family pets, and enjoy exploring – but can become skittish if not handled regularly.


All images are either open source, Google images, or my own – or photos donated for use by the pet owners.


If you have any questions or comments; please post a comment below, or contact Ali’s Answers via one of the social media pages…
• Instagram (@alis.animal.answers)
• Facebook (Ali’s Animal Answers)
• Twitter aka X (@AlisAnswers)
• LinkedIn (Ali Lloyd)

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