When I first met Tilly, she was 10 years old and had recently had a negative experience with a dog friend behaving aggressively toward her, which shook her up and affected her behaviour.
I had the pleasure of walking, training, and rehabilitating Tilly, and eventually being able to socialise her with many other dogs (the way she was prior to meeting me, according to her owner). It is always a joy to help a dog back to who they were before a traumatic event – once trauma has happened you can’t undo it, but you can help them overcome it, and I am happy I was able to do this for Tilly.
Tilly and Rollo:
Tilly and baby Rollo
Tilly was the first doggo interaction our Rollo had as a pup, and he followed her around, bugging her for attention and loving being around her.
Tilly took a liking to some local dogs we met, out with their dog walker – she even seemed to have a sweet spot for a grumpy old male Yorkie mix, who seemed to like her sufficiently too! Dogs she was unsure of she soon settled around and was happy to roam within her friendship groups whilst out and about.
Tilly and friends:
Tilly and Rollo even made friends with a lovely rescue dog from Romania, who didn’t usually accept outsiders into her family pack; Rollo seemed to hit it off well with her, and Tilly (being the other dog in Rollo’s pack) was welcomed in too.
Tilly did have a habit of seeing a pair of (human) legs and just following blindly, nose to the ground, assuming it was the human/ one of the humans she was with! My husband and I had to backtrack on more than one occasion to stop her stalking off, distracted, after a stranger!
Despite Tilly getting older and a bit stiffer, and with her eyesight and hearing deteriorating slightly, she was still keen to get out for walkies most days, albeit at a slower pace. She was such a happy dog and loving to all who came across her.
Tilly sadly crossed the rainbow bridge earlier this month and will be missed by all who knew her, and most of all, by her owner. Our Rollo still recognises the name “Tilly” when we’ve recently mentioned it, and I like to think he remembers something of her (even though he was so young when they were together). We will always treasure the memories of our tike with her, and we are grateful to have known her.
It’s been a while since I last did a pupdate for my doggos.
So, Rollo turned 2yo in January this year, and Brina turned 2yo in July (last month). In the last post (Puppy Tails (5)) I mentioned that Brina had come into her first heat/ season – despite being neutered, Rollo was a handful! We managed through and had had to separate them at times (to give her peace from him, and him a break from all the exciting pheromones) but we all managed!
Happy doggos
Brina has been neutered now, as we do not plan to breed from her, we were waiting for her to get through a couple of heats/ seasons, before booking her in for a spay. She had her umbilical hernia fixed at the same time – this would have needed to be fixed before breeding, if we had decided to breed from her. As a result, she had a bodysuit on, along with the buster collar (a.k.a. Cone of Shame) so that she left the stitches alone.The largest size the vet had fit her okay, aside from being tight round the front legs; I noticed that the bodysuit was cutting into her front legs! I cut bigger leg holes at the front, cleaned up the wounds (daily) and raised the issue with our vet at the follow up appointment – the action I had already taken seemed to be correct as the vet was happy with the fit if the suit (with the bigger leg holes) and happy the leg wounds were healing nicely.
Having never used a bodysuit for an injured/ recovering dog before, this isn’t something that I would have thought to be an issue – being too tight in just one area. If I ever use one again, I will be sure to check the fit of the bodysuit when I put it on and after the dog has moved around a bit, and make adjustments accordingly, to prevent injury.
Brina in her (modified) body suit
Having moved house a year ago, the dogs are well established now in their new home and environment. I think Rollo misses seeing the cows in the various fields every day (Brina doesn’t), as he used to like to interact with the cows. But they have some new friends locally – my student pup, Bailey the Golden Retriever, and another Lurcher (he is more greyhound like than Rollo) called Kodey. Having a big garden is great as they can run around and play to their hearts’ content (weather permitting), just the two of them or with their friends. We also now have the option of occasionally nipping down the road to my uncle’s farm so the dogs can have a run in one of the fields (if there is an empty one) – this is fab as I don’t think Rollo can quite reach full speed and stretch in our garden, but he can in a field!
As for the teenage behaviour of my dogs:
• Brina has developed a dislike for cats and barks at every last one she can find… she often wants to chase, too! So, we are very much working on this behaviour as it seems very unwarranted from her. Rollo had some experiences with nasty cats back in England, so you may expect a dislike of cats from him – he does sometimes bark at them, but Brina has had no experience with cats, aside from with the cats on the farm where she was born (likely forgotten). I have speculated that the behaviour from her is due to the lack of exposure to cats, prey drive or just a GSD thing – either way, it’s an undesirable behaviour from a 30+KG dog in an area with a lot of cats. She has much improved on this since she started the behaviour, but we have a way to go yet.
Brina is walking on a martingale collar now, instead of the Gentle Leader. We got both dogs the martingale collars for different reasons from Dog House Collars and Coats (they can also be found on the website Supporting Small Businesses page). This works for Brina in the same way a half check collar would work, but it’s all fabric with no chain. The collar, on its tightest, is how tight a normal collar should be. When she walks nicely, it’s a bit in the loose side, but when she pulls she can feel the tightening of the collar, without the size reduction causing any harm. She is learning with this, and walking a lot better. We stopped with the Gentle Leader as she had begun to pull against it and it was resulting in a bald patch on her muzzle.
Rollo showing off his martingale collar
• Rollo, since turning 2yo, has simmered down considerably. He still loves to play fight Brina, and he is still a cheeky boyo, but he is much better at listening again and obeying commands. We still get the odd teenage behaviour show through, where he chooses to ignore a command or act like he didn’t hear, or that we were talking to Brina, not him… but in the whole, I feel he is well on his way to becoming a well-behaved, good adult dog. But time will tell 😜
Rollo walks well on the martingale collar, but he walks well on a normal collar. The reason we got the martingale collar for him was more for his own safety – he has the typical Lurcher big head with slim neck, and the talent for slipping out of a regular collar! As with Brina, Rollo’s collar is fitted so it is the size a normal collar should be, when it’s on its tightest. He can walk normally, but if there is any pulling or indication he may want to remove himself from the collar, it is just pulled to its smallest size (normal collar fitting) and he can’t slip out of it. As Rollo isn’t really a puller, it isn’t often used for the same reason Brina’s is. But both dogs have benefitted greatly from these collars .
Cheeky Rollo
In summary, they’re both still cheeky teenagers, but we are getting there with their training. Patience and consistency is yielding positive results.
It’s often said that salad is “rabbit food” or “bunny food” – but how much of a salad can you actually feed to your pet rabbit? What other foods often thought of as “bunny food” should you avoid giving to your pet rabbit? What should be fed as “bunny food”?
* This is not an extensive list – check with your vet if you’re unsure or if the foodstuff is not included in this post. Be sure to check safe amounts for your age/ breed/ size of rabbit and their personal dietary requirements. Be sure to wash all fresh foodstuffs before feeding. *
LETTUCE
I feel like most people are surprised when I suggest keeping iceberg lettuce and other light coloured lettuces away from rabbits, as people often think of lettuce as “bunny food”.
Iceberg lettuce and other light coloured lettuces may contain a fluid known as lactucarium, which causes diarrhoea in rabbits. Being so high in water content, these also add very little nutritional value to their diet.
Some darker lettuces are safe to feed your rabbit but always in reasonable quantities. If in doubt, check with your vet what lettuces are safe to feed your pet and suitable serving size for your pets’ age, weight, and breed.
Lupin (left) & Thumper (right)
CARROTS & POTATOES
Not to say that carrots are bad for rabbits, but they are high in sugar and should only be fed in small amounts as a treat. Rabbits in the wild don’t naturally dig up root vegetables for dinner, much to the contrary of Bugs Bunny, who can often be seen munching on a carrot!
Fed in small quantities and certainly not every day, carrots can be a tasty treat for your long eared friend!
Avoid feeding any part of a potato to your rabbit. Being high in starch and carb’s, they do not really provide any health benefit to your bunny – as this can cause digestive issues, I would steer clear.
VEGETABLES
Bell peppers (no seeds), curly kale, bok choy, asparagus, parsnips, carrots (see above), cauliflower (including the leaves), celery, swede, courgette, peas, fennel, and mange tout are all safe “bunny foods”.
In small doeses: too much can cause gas to build up – brussel sprouts, broccoli, and cabbage.
Sliced carrots & red bell pepper
FRUIT
No seeds – apples, melon, pumpkin, oranges, pears, kiwi, and grapes (not whole, (and raisins) as an occasional sweet treat) are all safe for your bunny.
Raspberries, blackberries, blueberries, strawberries, peaches (no stone), and pineapples (small quantities) are also safe for your bunny to eat.
FRESH HERBS
Basil, mint, parsley, coriander, dill, and thyme are all bunny safe herbs (fed fresh).
PLANTS
Grass is the obvious one here, but be sure this is fresh grass and never cut grass – particularly from a lawn mower. Avoid allowing you rabbit access to grass that has been treated with anything (pesticides, weedkiller, etc.) that could make your pet ill.
Nettles and clover are also safe for your bunny to munch on. As are dandelions, daisies, nasturtiums, hollyhock, sunflowers, bell flowers, and lavender – flowers and leaves. My first rabbit often had free run of the garden (supervised), but he would stay close to me if I was making a daisy chain (often with dandelions added to the chain) so he could munch away on it when I was done!
Daffodils, foxgloves, rhododendrons, tulips, lily’s, chrysanthemums, rhubarb, buttercup, ivy, holly, hemlock, iris, nightshade, hydrangea, and hyacinths are all plants which are TOXIC to rabbits. Unfortunately, that doesn’t always deter them – as a child, we lost a rabbit after she consumed daffodil bulbs!
Daffodils
HEALTH & DIET
BE AWARE that incorrect feeding can also lead to bloat in rabbits; the result of incorrect foodstuffs and/ or overfeeding treat foodstuffs can cause a build-up of liquid and gas, causing a blockage. Bloat is quite often fatal in rabbits – even within just a few hours.
THE BULK of your rabbit’s diet should be fresh hay (not straw) and grass – this helps keep their teeth worn down (rabbit’s teeth are constantly growing) and provides much need fibre for your bunny’s high fibre digestive system.
THIS IS followed by pellet rabbit food – muesli style rabbit food is fine if your rabbit will eat all items in the mix, every time; pellet food has all the same nutritional value but mixed into one (more boring looking) pellet so that rabbits cannot pick and choose what they eat, therefore aiding to ensure a good nutritional balance without deficiency.
BE SURE to adjust the meal size to accommodate any treats being given, so as to avoid overfeeding.
ALWAYS BE sure to refresh your rabbit’s water daily and make sure they always have access to fresh water. Some rabbits will kick substrate into water bowls and refuse to drink from the dirty water source, whereas bottles keep the water secure in a clean container. Whatever your rabbit’s preferences, be sure they have access to clean water.
Rabbit munching on hay
CAECOTROPHY
Pronounced see-co-tro-fy is the process in which your rabbit will excrete caecotrophs, which are made up of nutrients that were not digested the first time round. These are soft pellets, which can be mistaken for soft poop pellets but are then eaten by your rabbit to go for round two through the digestive tract. If your rabbit does not appear to be doing this, take them for a vet check-up in case of underlying medical issues (such as physical pain or dental issues).
Rabbits eating indigestible poop pellets is known as coprophagy and is an undesirable behaviour; it is best to get this checked out.
All images are either open source, Google images, or my own – or photos donated for use by the pet owners.
If you have any questions or comments; please post a comment below or contact Ali’s Answers via one of the social media pages:
Have you ever had your dog come up to you and just sort of sneeze at you? Have you noticed your dog sneeze during play time? This isn’t really sneezing, but more of a fake sneeze.
IG: @alis.animal.answers
So, why do dogs fake sneeze? Well, there are a few reasons and situations, but it’s all a form of communication!
Attention
Your pooch may make eye contact and sneeze at you if they want your attention – maybe for a fuss, to be let out, for food… basically, it’s your dog saying, “Look at me – I want something.”
My German Shepherd Dog (GSD), if ignored, will often follow this up with a paw on you or with a louder vocalisation!
Your pooch may sneeze multiple times if ignored or, like Brina (my GSD), do something that’s harder to ignore!
Box of Tissues
During Play
Amidst the barking and growling and other playful noises, dogs sneeze during play to indicate that they are only playing! This can also indicate your dog is having fun!
Playtime
This type of fake sneeze is often referred to as a play sneeze. This seems to come from just the nose, as opposed to the lungs.
Whether playing nicely inside or rough-housing in the garden; you will always hear play sneezes from my two!
Happiness/ Contentment
Dogs fake sneeze to express happiness or contentment in a situation – being fussed, out for a walk, playing (as noted above), etc.
For example, my Lurcher (Rollo) will fake sneeze when he’s getting good belly/ chest scratch and fuss; indicating his enjoyment.
My GSD can be heard making contented sneezes occasionally when she’s eating – particularly when she’s enjoying finding her biscuits in her snuffle mat!
Brina finding food in her snuffle mat
All images are either open source, Google images, or my own – or photos donated for use by the pet owners.
If you have any questions or comments; please post a comment below or contact Ali’s Answers via one of the social media pages:
The hippopotamus, often shortened to hippo, is also known as River Horse as the word hippopotamus is the English translation of the Greek word for River Horse.
They are native to Africa and are considered one of Africa’s most dangerous mammals! Their bite can cut a human in two! Hippos are known for their aggressive nature, particularly in the water as they defend territories.
Hippos will mark out territory on land with their dung and even show dominance by flicking dung with their tail.
The hippo is the third largest land mammal, after the elephant and the rhinoceros (rhino). That being said, it is a semi-aquatic mammal and will spend around 16 hours a day in water. Hippos can hold their breath for 5 minutes at a time but also sleep in the water, surfacing to breathe automatically without waking.
Wild hippos have a lifespan of approximately 40 years, whereas captive hippos can live an extra decade, reaching approximately 50 years of age.
A full grown adult hippo is approximately 5 foot 2 inches in height (that’s my height!) and approximately 16.5 foot long – with females weighing in at 1,300-1,500 kg and males at 1,500-1,800 kg!
The front teeth of a hippo can grow to 1.2 foot, and the canine teeth (sometimes called tusks) can reach up to 1.5 foot!
Open Source Image
These large, heavy animals can reach speeds of approximately 19 mph (30.6 kph) at full gallop, which is pretty impressive (in my opinion) for animals who spend most of their time in water; where they reach a maximum speed of about 5 mph (8 kph). They’re not very quick in the water as they cannot actually swim or float, but rather walk or run along the riverbed.
Hippos are herbivores (vegetarians) and will usually graze after the sun has set, due to their very thick, waterproof skin being highly susceptible to sunburn. Hippos secrete a red liquid which helps to protect them from the sun, which has led to a myth that they sweat blood!
Although populations remain steady, the hippo is classified as vulnerable on the IUCN Red List – with poaching and habitat loss being the main contributors to the decline of this species. Conservation efforts are in place to try and combat their decline.
All images are either open source, Google images, or my own – or photos donated for use by the pet owners.
If you have any questions or comments; please post a comment below, or contact Ali’s Answers via one of the social media pages:
The link above is to a post I have written specifically for ourdogsfriends.org – you will see some posts they’ve done for me on this site, so I’ve returned the favour.
Click the link above to check it out ⬆️
Thanks, Ali🐾
Brina on her gentle leader
All images are either open source, Google images, or my own – or photos donated for use by the pet owners.
If you have any questions or comments, feel free to contact Ali’s Answers via one of the social media pages…
For those wanting a reminder about keeping your pets safe during the festive season, with all the seasonal treats and decor, you can find last year’s December website post here.
Due to the businesses of this month, especially having recently moved into our own place, and having two large breed, young dogs (teenagers essentially), this post will be short and sweet.
In the summer, there is plenty going round social media to warn us of the dangers of leaving dogs in hot cars, our pets without water or outside in the sun for too long. I’ve noticed there’s not as much that goes around when the weather is cold – I guess we’re all a little more agreeable to staying indoors when it’s cold outside as opposed to when it’s nice out!
However, just as it can be too hot to safely walk your dog or have them outside for too long, it can also be too cold to safely walk your dog or have them outside.
Rollo and Brina in the remaining snow last week
There seems to be a bit of a debate about the exact temperatures, but from what I’ve gathered the general consensus is that small-medium sized dog breeds shouldn’t be out for too long when it’s below -4°C (24.8°F) and larger breeds shouldn’t be out for too long when it’s below -6°C (21.2°F).
Remember, it’s not just the low temperatures that can be dangerous for your dog – snow and ice pose their own problems. Ensure your dog is sufficiently warm and protected from the elements, given their size, age and breed. Make sure to take it slow in icy conditions and take extra measures to make walkies safe!
Barney (my previous doggo) in his warm coat in the snow – 2009
Brina and Rollo were walked separately when I was on my own (I usually walk them together) when we had ice and snow last week due to me being able to be more in control and aware of our surroundings. Both got more treats than usual on walkies to ensure they walked well and close to me, and didn’t get distracted and pull me over (mind you, I went over twice of my own accord)!
Taking dogs out later in the morning and earlier in the evening may be easier as the temperature may be warmer and it will be lighter. Walking in the dark poses its own challenges – add low temperatures or ice and snow into the mix and it can be daunting for some people.
If you can’t get your dog out as much as you’d like, make sure you’ve got plenty of indoor activities to keep them occupied – but do be sure to let your dog out for regular toilet breaks!
With the weather outside being cold, it can often be cold inside too (especially with the cost of heating at the moment); be sure to give your pet a warm space to get cosy in, whilst indoors, so you can keep warm together.
Barney cosy in his fleecy bed – 2017
The Dogs Trust also have some tips for keeping your pets safe and warm in cold weather, if you want to check them out.
Finally, I wish you all a Merry Christmas, and a Happy New Year for 2023! Thank you to everyone who reads my posts – I hope you’ve enjoyed them this year!
All images are either open source, Google images, or my own – or photos donated for use by the pet owners.
If you have any questions or comments; please post a comment below, or contact Ali’s Answers via one of the social media pages:
As we approach Halloween and Bonfire Night, fireworks tend to play a large part in the festivities that people participate in.
Further to my Fireworks Anxiety (dogs) post from 2014, as a lot of pets are scared of fireworks, here are some tips to help them through it.
Dogs
• Long Term: it is good practise to try and desensitise your dog to the loud bangs, so that thunder and fireworks are not too much of an issue.
With my two, from being small pups, I played thunder and fireworks videos on YouTube at a low volume to get them used to the noises. Over time I increased the volume (as real thunder and fireworks are loud!) to continue the desensitising. I would play with my pups or practise tricks and reward with treats – doing something positive and enjoyable to help my pups not be bothered by the noises going on.
Gradually, over time, working with your dog to desensitise them to loud noises, can help them to have a positive association to these sounds (such as thunder and fireworks) with, instead of evoking a negative and often fearful response.
A couple of relaxed dogs
• During: some things you can do for your dog whilst the fireworks are going off in your neighbourhood to help them feel more relaxed…
– Use an anti-anxiety plug in diffuser or calming collar. These use calming pheromones to help calm your dog. The ones I’ve used in the past (in other circumstances) have been Adaptil products, but there are other brands on the market.
– Ensure your dog has a safe space; a quiet, secure, covered area to retreat to, should they need it. A crate (door left open) or table covered with a blanket or towel, with blankets and favourite toys inside can be a place of comfort for your dog to go to if the fireworks get too much for them.
If you are able to provide multiple safe spaces within your home, this will give your dog options – they may feel less stress and anxiety in one area of the house, so giving multiple safe spaces gives your dog the choice of where to retreat to, where they feel safest.
– Do not take your dog outside whilst fireworks are going off as this will only add to their anxiety. Ensure you have taken them for walkies and let them out for the toilet before fireworks are due to go off, which usually means taking them out before dark.
– Close your blinds/ curtains; it’s not just the noise of fireworks that can frighten your dog – the flashing lights can also upset them. Blocking out the sight of the fireworks should help.
– If your dog is content to have a chew toy/ treat or to engage in play, this is a good way to distract them from what’s going on outside.
– If your dog has severe anxiety, speak to your vet as they may require medication to help them through the firework season. Ask your vet to refer you to a behaviourist to work on this long term.
Dog walkies before dark
Cats
– As with dogs, keep cats inside whilst the fireworks are going off. If your cat is an outdoor cat, ensure to provide a litter tray whilst they are indoors.
– Do not confine your cat to one room/ area as they may injure themselves trying to escape.
– Block off/ lock cat flaps and ensure your doors and windows are secure to prevent your cat from getting out.
– Do create a safe hiding place for your cat; somewhere they can retreat to if they need to.
– If your cat is happy to be distracted with play, do spend time playing with your cat to ease their anxiety.
– Feliway or other branded pheromone products can also be used to help relax your cat.
Kittens safe and snuggled in a box with blankets and bed
Rabbits and Guinea Pigs
– If they usually live outside in a hutch, it’s a good idea to bring the hutch inside, or put your pets in an inside enclosure, whilst fireworks are going on outside.
– Ensure windows and doors are closed. Ensure curtains and blinds are closed. This will help dampen the noise.
– Adding extra bedding in the hutch or indoor enclosure will also help to dampen to noise, and provides a safe area to snuggle in if they get scared.
– Monitor their behaviour and seek veterinary assistance if necessary. If a rabbit or guinea pig is severely anxious they may stop eating, chew their cage, freeze, pull their fur out, or perform other anxious behaviour.
Rabbit in a hutch, indoors. Hutch has extra hay and a plastic hide-away.
Summary: All Pets
– Need a safe space away from the fireworks.
– Need to be monitored. Any extreme behavioural changes should be noted and your vet contacted.
– Need to be secure, indoors with windows and doors securely closed. Curtains and blinds should also be closed.
– Avoid having your pets outside with you if you are doing or attending firework displays.
Fireworks
All images are either open source, Google images, or my own – or photos donated for use by the pet owners.
If you have any questions or comments; please post a comment below, or contact Ali’s Answers via one of the social media pages:
Continuing “Puppy Tails” detailing the training going on with our two young doggos – Rollo and Brina.
If you’re wondering where July’s post is… Well, it isn’t I’m sad to say. We’re in the process of preparing to move and time got away from me! However, if you’re in the same situation, please check out posts done by myself and Our Dog Friends related to moving with pets – link 1 and link 2.
Our Brina has turned one year old last month!
Brina with her birthday treats
She and Rollo have been working recently on training commands, during on lead walkies – keeping them interested and engaged, to alleviate any frustration of being restricted to lead walks (now that the local livestock are back out in the fields) and to keep their focus on their handler. This has also come in handy with Rollo being restricted to lead walks for 2 weeks after a recent foot injury.
One of the commands we have been working on is “touch” – asking them to come away from whatever they’re doing and putting their nose on my hand. Rollo picked this up almost immediately, and Brina had the hang of it after just a couple of days – although Brina does like to put her nose and tongue on you 😅.
Rollo doing “touch”
Brina doing “touch” – including tongue 😂
The idea is that these commands can also be used when the dogs are off lead, to come back (reward motivation) when I need them to. Dogs can become fixated on things that draw their attention away from you, and make them seem like they have selective hearing! They can grow out of this, with consistent training, but being able to manage their behaviour when this happens is key. No dog behaves perfectly 100% of the time, especially when they’re in their ‘teenage’ phase, no matter what some trainers will have you believe about their own (speaking from experience). So a variety of training commands for a variety of situations will prove helpful. So far, the off lead response to “touch” has been very good!
Brina is highly motivated by food, and will immediately “focus” when I give the command, when she knows I have treats in my pocket! This has helped train new commands, like “touch” as she quickly learns what behaviour she has performed that resulted in the treat and is keen to perform the behaviour on command, for a reward of course! Low fat/ calorie treats work best if you’re giving out a fair few in training sessions – remember that food/ treats given in the day will impact their daily food intake (so adjust as necessary).
Rollo likes to change his motivation – when he was under 1 year old, he was like Brina; highly motivated by treats. When he was around 1 year old he lost his interest in treats on walks, but was highly motivated by the reward of his squeaky ball! Now, he is back to being motivated by treats – but only by the right treat… Otherwise, the squeaky ball usually does the trick. Honestly, sometimes I think he wakes up in the morning and decides what he wants to be motivated by that day, in a training session or when a command is given! So, when we go out, I’m prepared with whatever I may need to keep his attention on me when necessary.
Rollo and Brina enjoying being off lead
Alongside training “touch” as a new command, I’ve been reinforcing “go on” whilst on lead walks. When I’m training on lead, the dogs need to be focused on me as their handler, until I tell them “go on” which is accompanied by me giving them the length of the lead (providing it is safe to do so) and allowing them to walk for them – sniffing, dawdling, etc. (In my mind this stemmed from “go on, do your own thing”.)
It’s important to have a break command such as “go on” so your dog knows when training is done and they’re free to do their own thing.
“Touch” was initially introduced by asking the dogs to “sit” and “focus” (or “look at me* – whichever works) and me saying the word “touch” whilst gently touching my palm to their nose. After a few times doing this, I then held my hand close to their nose, and asked them to “touch”. This was then developed to be done whilst walking, and as a way to get their attention back on me.
Let me know in the comments or on social media (see below) if you try to teach “touch” yourself and how it goes!
To read the previous”Puppy Tails” please follow the links below:
